PARIS (AP) — Paris’s sweltering heat wave, leaving exhausted fashionistas nearly baked in the leafy courtyard of a famed Sorbonne University campus, has met its stylish adversary: the men’s mixed fashion show of Sacai. The biting Parisian heat was momentarily forgotten as attendees, clutching eco-water for relief, were drawn to Sacai’s latest display for this season’s Paris Fashion Week.
This year, designer and founder Chitose Abe ventured into Sacai’s signature codes while tapping into the spirit of the ’70s punk movement, a cultural emblem of resistance in a changing world. The result was a creative dialogue between the past and the future of fashion, between rebellion and uniformity.
Here are some highlights from Sunday’s Spring/Summer 2024 collections:
SACAI THE BLEND
Abe’s exploration of uniformity emerged in a head-to-toe approach, matching jackets, shirts and trousers in pinstripe, denim or floral print, demonstrating the designer’s skill at reinventing fabrics traditional in a unified look.
The classic suit was “hybrid,” as the house called it, as Abe mixed denim with suiting fabrics and a floral print spliced with moleskin inspired by 1940s French workwear. couture have allowed these prints to live again in the form of appliqué details. It was a fabulous touch.
The experiment with traditional suiting fabrics, from stripes and tweed to cotton gabardine, took a different turn with folded pleats. This allowed Abe to pare down his proportions in surreal ways and create innovative silhouettes, seen in peplums, generous pants and skirts, and intricate pleats in knits.
She continued to redefine the familiar. Abe adopted a fun “upside down” idea, reversing common dress styles for a fresh perspective. Notably, a sleeveless trench coat has been restructured, its fabric cut and condensed for a slimmer shape.
The collection ended with a refreshing and hopeful statement: “Know Future”. A playful reinterpretation of punk’s infamous proclamation, this statement anchored Sacai’s collection in an optimistic anticipation of a better world to come, even if the world around us now seems bleak.
Sacai’s show was the grand finale of Paris Fashion Week, a testament to Abe’s ability to captivate critics and audiences alike. As the sun set over Paris, Sacai’s spring menswear show offered a provocative and hopeful end to a week marked by style and creativity.
WOOYOUNGMI: SENSUALITY MEETS THE STREET
Wooyoungmi’s Sunday show at Paris Fashion Week was a fusion of funk and sex appeal. The brand’s know-how was evident in the refined collection presented to the public, who were humorously presented with pearlescent silk sleep masks, acknowledging the last day of an intense week.
The collection showed off Wooyoungmi’s mastery of fabric manipulation and fit. Every piece, from oversized sheer shirts with teasing ruffles to pearlescent silk shorts, has been cut to perfection, expertly crafted to create a visual spectacle while maintaining a sophisticated look. Every stitch and seam is a testament to Wooyoungmi’s attention to detail.
The South Korean brand’s craftsmanship was not only visible in the sultry pieces, but also in the streetwear elements. A seemingly casual baseball cap was carefully teamed with baggy jeans and an oversized sheer basketball shirt – a composition that celebrated both the structure of the sportswear and the sultry vibe of the collection. The elements came together to form a silhouette that is both athletic and sultry, showcasing Wooyoungmi’s design prowess.
But perhaps it was the puffy, shiny cargo pants that best exemplified Wooyoungmi’s craftsmanship. The unique piece featured voluminous gathers at the bottom, creating an imaginative and timeless design that somehow felt both historic and futuristic.
BED JW FORD UNVEILS A SUMMER COLLECTION WITH A TWIST
On a sunny Sunday in Paris, Shinpei Yamagishi’s brand, BED jw FORD, launched its latest collection with an edgy summer twist. This show clearly continued Yamagishi’s signature approach of blending personal nostalgia with a distinct contemporary perspective.
The collection was full of funky striped baggy shorts, baggy white cotton waistcoats and straw-colored hats, nodding to the quiet essence of summer. However, Yamagishi, always the master of juxtaposition, subtly disrupted this breezy feel with elements of urban wear such as clunky city loafers and oversized suede boots adorned with zippers.
The collection transitioned smoothly into a range of baggy suits that managed to toe the line between relaxed and refined. A standout piece was Yamagishi’s take on blue workman’s pants with a utilitarian zipper horizontally across the crotch, striking a balance between functional and fashionable.
True to BED jw FORD’s inclination for fluid fashion, the collection introduced gold animal print skorts, intriguingly paired under a soft black women’s jacket with a chain hem. This playful blend of feminine and masculine elements underscored Yamagishi’s skillful design spirit and reaffirmed the brand’s position as a fashion trendsetter.